THERMAL WATERS (AGUAS TERMALES)

There’s nothing more enjoyable for my wife and I than relaxing in the sumptuous thermal baths of Mexico.  When we lived in San Miguel de Allende, we went as often as possible to “La Gruta”, a place located in the middle of the country in the direction of the small city called Dolores Hidalgo.  The waters there reminded me of what I’d enjoyed in a mountain forest near Seattle, WA back in the 80s.  There were three levels—warm, warmer, and almost hot.  And just above these baths were a couple of ponds with lotus flowers. 

Here in our area of Tlaxcala, we don’t have far to go to enjoy another set of thermal waters—a place called Chignahuapan located in the state of Puebla.

Last Friday, we got up early, ate breakfast, packed our backpack, and walked from our house to the nearby highway to catch a “combi” (a passenger van) for the small city of Apizaco, about 15 minutes away, where we planned to take the bus to Chignahuapan.  (Just in case you’re wondering why we walked…well, it’s because we like to keep in shape and use the plentiful public transportation!  We had a car years ago in San Miguel de Allende for a few months, but we found that it made us lazy.)  Above you can see the first class bus we took to our destination.  It comes with air conditioning and movies, and the price for the one hour trip was quite reasonable--$53 pesos for the both of us which is around $4.25 U.S.  Of course, this is because seniors get a 50% discount on bus trips here in Mexico.  And most of the drivers are quite professional.

When we arrived in Chignahuapan, we took a taxi ($50 pesos) to the place you see above which is called Aguas Termales de Chignahuapan.  We could have taken a combi which would have cost us $6.00 pesos each, but we chose to take the faster mode of transport due to the time of day.

Of course, you can see that the resort has pools outside and inside.  What you cannot view, however, are the small rooms that contain rectangular concrete bathtubs, about 3.5 feet deep that allow you to adjust the temperature of the water according to how much you let flow into and out of the tub.  Since Fridays are half price day, two hours of this luxury cost us $150 pesos (about $13 U.S.).  The thermal waters not only detoxify you but allow you to meditate or daydream—just plain relax.

Certainly, one can also go to the spa to enjoy the meditation room, yoga, or 20 minute massages.  There’s also a really nice dining room where you can order from the menu or at selected times choose the buffet.  In fact, this place reminds me of the spa I used to go to in Frankfurt, Germany called “El Pueblo”.

If you wish to stay for the weekend, there are junior suites and master suites.  The junior costs $2,599 pesos while the master (with a Jacuzzi) runs $3,145 pesos for two people, which includes three meals per day including additional amenities.

Since this resort is primarily for Mexican people on holiday or taking time off like ourselves, there’s only one person there who speaks a little bit of English.  This means that whoever plans to use this resort needs to either speak basic Spanish with fluency or have someone with them who does.  It’s a place where you do not often see international tourists.

The Town Of Chignahuapan

While the town of Chignahuapan has a population of about 30,000, there are an additional 50,000 or more in the surrounding villages.  Numerous hotels and cabins can be found at reasonable prices.  There are several restaurants which have really good food.  Obviously, instead of staying at the spa, it’s more economical to find housing and food close by.  We’ve been coming here several times a year for more than seven years, and we’ve found the people to be quite friendly.  Also, the weather can be a little cool at night because the altitude is close to 8,000 feet.

As for ourselves, we took a combi back to Chignahuapan from the resort, and had lunch at a very nice restaurant—the one to which we’re partial and the waiters are great.  Then we walked a few blocks, got on the bus, and went home.  We’d had a wonderful day of relaxation.  Thank you Mexico!

USING THE LANGUAGE OF MEXICO

Coming into an organization or a country that is completely new to us is a change that frequently sends people into culture shock.  Not only do we have to learn how things are organized, but we also need to assimilate ourselves to what we hear being said and function within that setting—even if it’s only temporary.  So when we’re speaking of learning to use a level of fluency in a foreign language, it can be challenging but also highly rewarding and a lot of fun.  That’s why we need to investigate the payoffs for learning to read, write, speak, and understand Spanish effectively (the principal idiom of the Mexican people), before taking it on:

      

      Short visits.  If you’re coming to Mexico for only a week or so, then it’s a good idea to learn a few basics.  For example, this includes greeting people, reading menus, asking directions (like, “Where’s the bathroom?”), and understanding signs and numbers, i.e., prices.  It’s also a good idea to find a native speaker to teach you these things in person or over the internet so you can pronounce the words correctly.  You won’t really need any more than this if you stick to places where there are a lot of international visitors because many of the Mexicans working and living there will speak and understand English.  But if you plan to go anywhere else with this level of Spanish, take someone with you who is at least fluent at the basic level.  The benefit of these few words is fundamental for respect and courteous responses such as smiles, appreciation, and getting what you want in shops, hotels, and restaurants.

      

      Seasonal living.  If you’re coming to live in this country for six months or less, such as in the late fall and winter, then it’s quite rewarding to develop fluency at the basic level. This will allow you to not only live where there are numerous international visitors but also in some of the areas away from these touristy places.  You’ll be able to search for and find a place to rent with limited assistance.  Moreover, you can go to the open air markets to buy consumables instead of sending your housekeeper or going with a friend.  If you’re a person who likes good conversation and meeting new people, you’ll soon find yourself making friends with the natives and improving your Spanish.  In short, life will become very enjoyable and culture shock will soon become a thing of the past.

      

      Permanent living.  If you’re a person who would like to live here permanently, whereby you can come and go as you please, or stay here without ever leaving the country, especially as a retiree, then an intermediate to advanced level of fluency is highly recommendable.  It takes a considerable amount of dedication and determination, but the benefits are immense.  For example, you can read everything except for the very technical jargon.  Listening to the radio or watching television in Spanish is not a problem.  Talking on the phone to make reservations or do anything else is fairly easy.  Conversing with neighbors or attending classes and seminars is enjoyable.  And this is only the beginning.

For example, when I knew that I was coming here to live, I began to study and practice Spanish in San Antonio, TX day and night, something I kept up for more than three years.  Although I had lived in Germany for almost 11 years before coming to Mexico, I had only developed an intermediate level of speaking that country’s language, but I experienced the immense benefit of functioning in an all German speaking environment.  So I knew that dedicating the time to becoming fluent in Spanish would be well worth the effort.  I’ve never regretted that decision because I’ve been able to attend classes and meditation retreats, teach, converse with whomever I’ve met, help negotiate rental contracts, read fictional and non fictional literature, explain English grammar, function in an intercultural marriage, tell and understand jokes, and so much more.  Likewise, other Americans have made it pay off for them.  My friend Bob has been here for more than 40 years, and frequently works as a translator for the group called “Doctors Without Borders” helping people in indigenous communities in Tlaxcala and Puebla.

I would also like to say that in Central Mexico, there are thousands of local citizens who speak from basic to very advanced English.  There are multitudes of students enrolled in private English schools as well as technicians and professionals who travel all over the world.  Mexicans are very friendly and curious people who are quite ready to help travelers with the language.  Even here in our rural towns of Santa Cruz Tlaxcala and Amaxac, there are people like that.

In conclusion, investigating the value of learning to speak Spanish in Mexico and other countries (even the U.S.) before attending a class is worthwhile.  It’ll help you to develop the motivation and drive to learn what you need for short visits, seasonal living, or permanently living in this country, and it will keep you from wasting your time.  Ex-patriots who are meditators and use Spanish fluently really enjoy their lives here, participating with groups in Puebla or other areas as well as associating with the local citizenry.  I’m sure that most of them would speak happily of their decision to learn the language.  After all, this skill is of immense value to them and those with whom they associate.

COMING TO MEXICO

I began hearing about living in Mexico from an old friend, Ricardo Cruz-Segarra, when I was living in Germany back in the early 80s.  It aroused my curiosity.  Then when I was living and working in Saudi Arabia, a colleague began talking to me about Mexico and the value of living there.  My intrigue with the country was stirred again.  Next, when I was visiting a friend in San Antonio, TX in 1990 and heard the people speaking Spanish there, I knew I had to visit our southern neighbor.  So, I spent a good year studying and learning how to speak Spanish before I departed for Saltillo, Mexico in December 1991.  Once there, because of the wonderful Mexican people with whom I lived, the culture, and the general cost of living, I came back to San Antonio in April 1992, convinced in my heart that I was going to live in Mexico.

With this conviction, I continued studying Spanish in San Antonio and meeting people from Mexico as well as those with Mexican ancestry.  Since I had lived in Germany for a total of 11 years, I knew the value of speaking a country’s language and learning its customs.  I wanted to go back to Mexico as well prepared as I could be. 

In March 1994, I closed my apartment, packed my bags, and left for Cuernavaca, Mexico.  I spent a couple of months there studying advanced Spanish at a really good language school, enjoying the people, and acquainting myself with Central Mexico.  In May 1994, I left the institute and moved to San Miguel de Allende, where I rented a house and began to live as an ex-pat in Mexico, thoroughly enjoying every minute of it.

I won’t say that it didn’t take any time to loosen my ties with the U.S. because it did—about 3 ½ years.  But all the while, my conviction to live in Mexico remained firm.  It was a passion of the heart, not the mind and it didn’t waiver.  That was something new for me.  After all, I’d always been a person who had considered making life changing decisions by tossing them back and forth continuously before I acted on them—even continuing to doubt them afterwards--but not this time.

In July 1994, I met the woman who would become my wife, Rebeca Montes Ortega, a native of Santa Cruz Tlaxcala, Tlaxcala, Mexico.  She had been living and working in San Miguel de Allende since 1988.  We moved in together in September 1994 and began a really wonderful relationship.  While she became my Spanish teacher and guide regarding the Mexican culture, I became her English teacher and guide for the American culture.

And through all the years I’ve spent here in this country, I’ve maintained a meditation practice and helped Rebe to develop one as well.  Along with our friend Michael Parten, we opened a meditation center in the top of the Hotel Taboada in downtown San Miguel de allende.  That group is still going.  Since moving from that small and beautiful city in 1998, we’ve continued to attend retreats and practice with other people in Tequisquiapan, Tepotzlan, Valle de Bravo, Jalapa, Mexico City, Puebla and here in Tlaxcala.  Simply due to the cost of living, Mexico has allowed me to devote more time to meditation practice than I would have had had I stayed in the U.S.  Thank you, Mexico!