YOGA IN PUEBLA, MEXICO

If a person chooses to live in the city of Puebla and wants to stay fit, I’d look up our friend and yoga teacher Juan Carlos Martínez Parra.  He’s the director of a yoga center called Sahasrara Yoga which is located across the street from Plaza Cristal, a well-known shopping center, in a nice area of this major metropolitan environment.

We’ve known Juan Carlos since 1997 when we met him at a meditation retreat in Mexico City.  Through the years we’ve come to recognize that he’s an extremely talented person.  Not only does he teach all levels of yoga, but he also instructs people in meditation, tai chi, and martial arts. Moreover, he’s a contributing writer for Yoghismo, one of the best yoga magazines here in Mexico, and he has a weekly internet radio program called Camino Sin Fronteras (Path Without Borders) (www.sabersinfin.com), where he interviews local people who are involved with various types of spiritual pursuits.

Anyone who comes to Juan Carlos’s classes will find him very personable, quite knowledgeable, and extremely capable.  If there is a need for translation, he always has students who are fluent in English.  For further information, please check his website www.yogapuebla.com.mx

RURAL CENTRAL MEXICO

When we leave our home for Apizaco, a small city in our area, we pass by the panorama you see above.  The large mountain at the rear of the photo is the Malintzi.  Its elevation is around 15,000 feet.  There is an excellent camping area with cabins a little over half way up, which is surrounded by forest.  Our property is about middle upper right on the photo.  

While there are a number of small towns around the Malintzi, there are also quite a number of citizens who love living in the country like we do.  The people here are quite friendly.  Their professions vary from construction workers and small farmers to doctors and engineers.

Now that we are into the rainy season (late May through early November), everything is beautifully green.  People are into growing their crops, going swimming at the nearby vacation area called the Trinidad, and just enjoying the wonderful climate.  What a wonderful time of year to be here!

DHAMMA VIHARA MEXICO

Although there are a number of places to go on meditation retreats in Central Mexico, one of our favorite locations is the monastery operated by Dhamma Vihara near Jilotepec, Veracruz.  Situated in the mountains about 30 minutes by taxi from the city of Jalapa, it’s easily one of the most beautiful places to seek solitude in this country.

The abbot of this monastery is the Venerable Bhikku Nandisena.  He’s not only fluent in Spanish and English but also has a high level of capability in Pali.  As a scholar and practitioner, he’s a truly kind-hearted and wise instructor and counselor, one my wife and I would recommend to anyone who has an interest in the discipline of meditation as a means to improve his or her life.

Here is an excellent view of the monastery where you can see the building that houses the kitchen and dining facilities.  On the right is a view of the porch in front of the meditation hall and the teacher’s quarters.  Practitioners who like walking meditation have ample opportunity to enjoy a space away from the noise of traffic, for there’s only the sound of birds and small animals being filtered through the forested environment.

Here we see a view of the dormitory located in back of the kitchen and dining facilities.  Each student is housed in a small but comfortable room.   Surrounded by nature, it is a wonderfully serene atmosphere in which to enjoy a pleasant night’s sleep.

Here is a side view of the meditation hall, teacher’s quarters, and meeting rooms.  There is sufficient space for around 30 or so practitioners and teachers. 

Please believe me when I say that walking meditation in the misty fog of the early mornings at this monastery is a unique experience, especially when you’re alone.  Even though I prefer sitting meditation, I’ll definitely defer that preference when such weather conditions prevail.

This is a photo of our first time at the monastery several years ago.  Pictured in the center, of course, is the Venerable Bhikku Nandisena.  Rebe and I are located on the lower left hand side.

The people in the Sangha who help manage the retreats are remarkably gracious and of great assistance.  They support us with assigned chores, assist with the cooking and serving, and offer helpful advice regarding practice.  Creating such a wonderful setting, they are largely responsible for why meditators return.  

Rebe and I have been here on retreat twice, and we’re going back again this fall.  We know that our time there will be productive and enjoyable.

The web address for Dhama Vihara Mexico is:  www.dhammavihara.org

A QUIET LUNCH

Last week on Monday, Rebe and I went for a quiet birthday lunch at the “Bistro”, one of our favorite restaurants in Apizaco, a small city about 15 minutes from our home.

We’ve been going to this establishment about once a month for more than six years.  It’s located in an old home about a block off the city square.  Although you can only see a small portion of the restaurant here, it can handle over 150 people for breakfast, lunch, or dinner.  The service is excellent, the menu has a good variety, and the prices are in the middle range. 

We particularly like the Bistro because of its beautiful and comfortable environment, one in which we can take our time, bring our guests, and find the owners quite pleasant and responsive.  Also, if one chooses to linger on to read and enjoy a cup of coffee or tea after dining, he or she can feel contented to do so.

I’m sure that we’ll continue to appreciate this wonderful eating place for years to come.  It’s been particularly good for us.  We also go there to take a load off our feet and enjoy a pastry with something to drink during shopping trips in Apizaco.  We’re sure that others will have a pleasant experience there too.

CREATING A SPACE FOR MEDITATION

When we begin to practice meditation, we are often told that it’s important to dedicate an area in our home for that purpose.  The instructions also say it should be quiet and not used for other activities.  At first, the significance of these guidelines may not be readily apparent, but that changes over time, especially with practice.  My wife and I have had that in mind ever since we began to construct our home in the countryside of Santa Cruz Tlaxcala, Tlaxcala, Mexico eight years ago.

Although we’d always had rooms and spaces for meditation in the homes we rented in this country (San Miguel de Allende, Tacambaro, Puebla, and Santa Cruz Tlaxcala), there’s nothing like having one in your own home.  Ours is especially suited for us, and we’ve been enjoying it for a little over five years now.  Instead of hearing the sound of the traffic in a town or city, we listen to the birds and domestic animals from the upstairs windows of our meditation room.  Also, in the distance we hear the church bells from the small towns around us as well as the train passing by on its way to Veracruz or Puebla.  None of these sounds disrupt our practice nor do any of the aromas of the country air.  Moreover, after living in this community for more than 11 years, we feel very secure and happy. 

LIVING IN CITIES OR SMALL TOWNS IN CENTRAL MEXICO

When our professions have no influence on where we can live, the freedom we feel is quite exhilarating.  It’s an opportunity to let our personal goals and objectives guide us to a place where we can comfortably experience our dreams.  Thousands talk of such a prospect.  And here in Central Mexico, we find that cities and small towns offer a lot to make that a reality.

For example, rentals in many cases are much less expensive than in the U.S.   In our small town of Santa Cruz Tlaxcala, the going monthly rate for a nice one bedroom, unfurnished apartment is from $2,000 to $2,500 pesos.  If it’s furnished, then the price is about 40% to 50% more.  Also, add another $1000 or so monthly for cities like Tlaxcala or Puebla. When you’ve found what you want and are satisfied with the cost, then one month’s rent in advance as well as the first month’s rent is expected.  Certainly, it’s possible to find rentals for less money, but they might not be what you want.  More expensive apartments are available as well.  Make sure the landlord provides you with a written contract and get a receipt each time you pay.  Also, it’s good to know that a landlord cannot evict you as easily as in the U.S.  The rental laws even protect the foreigners living here. 

Security should be one of your highest priorities when finding a rental.  For that reason, as well as negotiating the price, it’s to your benefit if you have a Mexican acquaintance or friend who can accompany you.  He or she will generally know how secure a particular neighborhood is and what a fair price is.  Moreover, your apartment, should have secure locks on the doors and bars over the windows, including the window on the door.  If it’s possible to have a sliding bolt or pin running from the door into the wall, that’s preferable too.

Another thing you should know about Mexican cities and small towns is that they generally have more activity during the day. There are particular sounds for the garbage men, the knife sharpener, tamale salesman, ice cream truck, and other vendors.  Hearing bells ringing from the churches during celebrations and the occasional neighbor having a fiesta are common.  When you become accustomed to these activities, you notice they give the community a personality. 

While I’ve discovered living in Mexican cities and towns to be an interesting change, I’ve also recognized that it’s good to make acquaintances and friends with the local citizens and other international inhabitants.  It you’re outgoing, it’s easier, but even if that’s not the case, in small communities you can start with the people from whom you’ve rented a place to live.  Secondly, those you meet in the shops, restaurants, and market where you get your groceries and other necessities.  Among those workers, owners, and customers, you might find a few with experiences similar to yours.  If you like to attend church, it’s possible to go to the local Catholic mass even if you aren’t Catholic.  It’ll acquaint you with the general population.    Getting to know people in the cities is much the same as in towns, but you might find it preferable to look for some of the groups or associations with whom you can find a professional or non-professional interest.  Many of them are listed in internet. 

The main thing, however, with the people you meet, whether it be individuals or groups, is to be friendly, patient, and curious.  The citizens here watch the foreigners with particular interest, and it’s even more so in small towns.  They want to know what kind of people they are.  Usually, all they know about outsiders is what they’ve read, seen on television, heard about from friends and acquaintances, or have occasioned to meet in the past.  Sometimes the locals are predisposed to believe they can’t understand the way you speak Spanish, but if you take your time and speak as clearly as you can, they’ll appreciate your effort and try harder to understand you.  After you’ve made several acquaintances, they’ll introduce you to others, which makes life much easier.

Once you begin to meet a number of people, you’ll notice the differences in the way they speak.  If it’s a professional conversation, the language will be more formal and spoken more clearly.  If it’s a social get together, they might begin talking somewhat formally with you, but as the dialogue continues, it becomes more informal.  You’ll quickly see there is a way that acquaintances speak with each other as compared to how family members and close friends relate.  Moreover, it’s normal to meet people from all over Mexico in social and professional settings.  The pace at which they speak, their accents, and their regional dialects are often challenging.  It’s your task to accustom yourself to such variations just as it is for them to understand you.  And don’t worry, you’ll find a lot of them are more than willing to help you out.  Frequently, many of the more highly educated Mexicans will speak and understand English quite fluently, whereas in the small towns that won’t be quite so common, but even that is changing.  After all, a lot of people here have worked in the U.S. or Canada or have travelled internationally.

Aside from the above settings, other activities such as shopping can be quite interesting.  In a city such as Puebla, which has a population of more than three million, you’ll find shopping centers similar to what you would expect to see in the U.S., Canada, or Europe.  Besides the shops you find in these malls, there are hundreds scattered throughout the city.  When it comes to buying fruits and vegetables, by far the best place to go is one of the markets.  The prices are better, and the produce is often fresher.  Usually, the prices are posted but if they aren’t, then watch and listen to see what other people are paying if you’re not sure of a reasonable charge for what you want.  In the small towns, such as Santa Cruz Tlaxcala where my wife and I live, there are a number of shops and a market.  Frequently, there’s an open air market during the week called a “Tiangus”.  Wherever you choose to shop, in the beginning it’s preferable to go with a Mexican acquaintance who can orient you to this new experience.

Also, as you go about your shopping, you’ll find a need for public transportation.  There are plenty of taxi cabs where a short ride will cost between 25 and 35 pesos.  You’ll need to know what a reasonable fare is and negotiate it with the driver.  If you’re not sure, then ask your landlord or another acquaintance before you go anywhere.   Most people use the combis (vans) or small city buses unless they’re in a hurry.  They have fixed routes and the tariff is around five or six pesos.  Stopping on corners, they usually pass by every three to five minutes. 

In conclusion, if you have a positive frame of mind, you’ll find a lot to your liking wherever you prefer to live, the small towns or the cities.  While I’ve covered rentals, security, meeting people, shopping, and public transportation, there are numerous other affirmative aspects to living here in Central Mexico.  For example, I particularly like nice restaurants, excellent coffee shops, thermal and steam baths, and weekend breakfasts, brunches, and lunches with friends.  I also enjoy the activity of our little town, where I always see locals who stop to chat.  This country has so much more to offer than people generally realize.

CULTURAL ORIENTATION

Whether you’re a person who is accustomed to living in other countries or not, you should definitely consider the fact that staying for the winter or more in Mexico is best done if you acquaint yourself with the culture.  After all, human lives are based so heavily on expectations.  If you have no idea of what to expect in a new country, you’ll arrive less than prepared, and the culture shock could be significant.   Because of all my years of living in places outside of the U.S., I knew the value of cultural orientation and began educating myself with classes and meeting Mexican people in San Antonio a year before I ever came to this country.  The benefits were enormous!  I learned that if you’re contemplating living in Mexico, one of the best ways to transition into life here is to attend a language school before moving on to the community where you plan on spending the majority of your time.

It doesn’t matter whether you’ve already had training in Spanish before coming to Mexico or not.  For example, when I came to live here permanently, I’d already had three years of studying and speaking the language, but going to the school while staying with a Mexican family helped me a lot.  I and three other male students stayed in the home of two instructors, Mari Carmen and her daughter, in a nice section of Cuernavaca.  We went to school with them, ate with them, met their friends, and learned how to socialize with the citizens.  Not only did the school help us with the language and the customs, but also how to comport ourselves while showing respect for the positive values of the people.  We learned that Mexicans were just like many other citizens of the world—they want a decent home, gainful employment, a happy family life, and to live in peace.  Who wouldn’t find that inviting?

When you understand these aspects of Mexican life and have finished school with at least a basic level of fluency in Spanish (of course, I recommend more), then moving on to another Mexican community is a lot smoother.  You’ve got a pretty good idea of what to expect, have grown accustomed to speaking to the citizens of this country, and appreciated hearing their jokes and stories.  You should also be capable of carrying on a conversation and have learned that people here are curious about foreign visitors, especially those who begin to live here for more than a couple of weeks! 

As for me, I moved on to San Miguel de Allende because I wanted to live in an international community.  Although I’d lived about four months several years before in Saltillo, a city with only a few foreign inhabitants, the school in Cuernavaca still helped me to more openly meet and make friends here in Central Mexico.  That’s key to developing a circle of people who give you a level of security and make living here easier and more enjoyable.  Since this was something that I’d done wherever I’d lived, it was comfortable for me to do again. 

By involving myself with local groups, I met my wife Rebe, who is Mexican, and lived in San Miguel a little more than four years before deciding to move on to completely integrate myself into Mexican society.  Between leaving that small city and coming to Tlaxcala, we lived in the mountains of Michoacan and the city of Puebla, where we had a successful English school.  Throughout this experience, I learned to work, teach, and associate with various levels of Mexican society.

In conclusion, what I’ve described here is a way to more easily acculturate oneself into Mexican living.  It doesn’t matter whether you arrive here able to speak a little Spanish or much more.  A language school is still a good option, where nobody is above a little help.  After all, I saw my teachers correct fellow Mexicans accompanying group tours of the institution where I was studying!  Also, it’s really important to understand that it’s the Mexican acquaintances and friends you make that will help you most, so people who are reasonably outgoing and friendly do very well.  For example, the local citizens who became my friends in Saltillo were of immeasurable assistance.  So, if you’re a meditator or anyone else who wants to participate in life here:  be happy, reach out!  You’ll be welcomed.