Monday, June 17, 2013

LIVING IN CITIES OR SMALL TOWNS IN CENTRAL MEXICO

When our professions have no influence on where we can live, the freedom we feel is quite exhilarating.  It’s an opportunity to let our personal goals and objectives guide us to a place where we can comfortably experience our dreams.  Thousands talk of such a prospect.  And here in Central Mexico, we find that cities and small towns offer a lot to make that a reality.

For example, rentals in many cases are much less expensive than in the U.S.   In our small town of Santa Cruz Tlaxcala, the going monthly rate for a nice one bedroom, unfurnished apartment is from $2,000 to $2,500 pesos.  If it’s furnished, then the price is about 40% to 50% more.  Also, add another $1000 or so monthly for cities like Tlaxcala or Puebla. When you’ve found what you want and are satisfied with the cost, then one month’s rent in advance as well as the first month’s rent is expected.  Certainly, it’s possible to find rentals for less money, but they might not be what you want.  More expensive apartments are available as well.  Make sure the landlord provides you with a written contract and get a receipt each time you pay.  Also, it’s good to know that a landlord cannot evict you as easily as in the U.S.  The rental laws even protect the foreigners living here. 

Security should be one of your highest priorities when finding a rental.  For that reason, as well as negotiating the price, it’s to your benefit if you have a Mexican acquaintance or friend who can accompany you.  He or she will generally know how secure a particular neighborhood is and what a fair price is.  Moreover, your apartment, should have secure locks on the doors and bars over the windows, including the window on the door.  If it’s possible to have a sliding bolt or pin running from the door into the wall, that’s preferable too.

Another thing you should know about Mexican cities and small towns is that they generally have more activity during the day. There are particular sounds for the garbage men, the knife sharpener, tamale salesman, ice cream truck, and other vendors.  Hearing bells ringing from the churches during celebrations and the occasional neighbor having a fiesta are common.  When you become accustomed to these activities, you notice they give the community a personality. 

While I’ve discovered living in Mexican cities and towns to be an interesting change, I’ve also recognized that it’s good to make acquaintances and friends with the local citizens and other international inhabitants.  It you’re outgoing, it’s easier, but even if that’s not the case, in small communities you can start with the people from whom you’ve rented a place to live.  Secondly, those you meet in the shops, restaurants, and market where you get your groceries and other necessities.  Among those workers, owners, and customers, you might find a few with experiences similar to yours.  If you like to attend church, it’s possible to go to the local Catholic mass even if you aren’t Catholic.  It’ll acquaint you with the general population.    Getting to know people in the cities is much the same as in towns, but you might find it preferable to look for some of the groups or associations with whom you can find a professional or non-professional interest.  Many of them are listed in internet. 

The main thing, however, with the people you meet, whether it be individuals or groups, is to be friendly, patient, and curious.  The citizens here watch the foreigners with particular interest, and it’s even more so in small towns.  They want to know what kind of people they are.  Usually, all they know about outsiders is what they’ve read, seen on television, heard about from friends and acquaintances, or have occasioned to meet in the past.  Sometimes the locals are predisposed to believe they can’t understand the way you speak Spanish, but if you take your time and speak as clearly as you can, they’ll appreciate your effort and try harder to understand you.  After you’ve made several acquaintances, they’ll introduce you to others, which makes life much easier.

Once you begin to meet a number of people, you’ll notice the differences in the way they speak.  If it’s a professional conversation, the language will be more formal and spoken more clearly.  If it’s a social get together, they might begin talking somewhat formally with you, but as the dialogue continues, it becomes more informal.  You’ll quickly see there is a way that acquaintances speak with each other as compared to how family members and close friends relate.  Moreover, it’s normal to meet people from all over Mexico in social and professional settings.  The pace at which they speak, their accents, and their regional dialects are often challenging.  It’s your task to accustom yourself to such variations just as it is for them to understand you.  And don’t worry, you’ll find a lot of them are more than willing to help you out.  Frequently, many of the more highly educated Mexicans will speak and understand English quite fluently, whereas in the small towns that won’t be quite so common, but even that is changing.  After all, a lot of people here have worked in the U.S. or Canada or have travelled internationally.

Aside from the above settings, other activities such as shopping can be quite interesting.  In a city such as Puebla, which has a population of more than three million, you’ll find shopping centers similar to what you would expect to see in the U.S., Canada, or Europe.  Besides the shops you find in these malls, there are hundreds scattered throughout the city.  When it comes to buying fruits and vegetables, by far the best place to go is one of the markets.  The prices are better, and the produce is often fresher.  Usually, the prices are posted but if they aren’t, then watch and listen to see what other people are paying if you’re not sure of a reasonable charge for what you want.  In the small towns, such as Santa Cruz Tlaxcala where my wife and I live, there are a number of shops and a market.  Frequently, there’s an open air market during the week called a “Tiangus”.  Wherever you choose to shop, in the beginning it’s preferable to go with a Mexican acquaintance who can orient you to this new experience.

Also, as you go about your shopping, you’ll find a need for public transportation.  There are plenty of taxi cabs where a short ride will cost between 25 and 35 pesos.  You’ll need to know what a reasonable fare is and negotiate it with the driver.  If you’re not sure, then ask your landlord or another acquaintance before you go anywhere.   Most people use the combis (vans) or small city buses unless they’re in a hurry.  They have fixed routes and the tariff is around five or six pesos.  Stopping on corners, they usually pass by every three to five minutes. 


In conclusion, if you have a positive frame of mind, you’ll find a lot to your liking wherever you prefer to live, the small towns or the cities.  While I’ve covered rentals, security, meeting people, shopping, and public transportation, there are numerous other affirmative aspects to living here in Central Mexico.  For example, I particularly like nice restaurants, excellent coffee shops, thermal and steam baths, and weekend breakfasts, brunches, and lunches with friends.  I also enjoy the activity of our little town, where I always see locals who stop to chat.  This country has so much more to offer than people generally realize.

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